Let’s start with the basics: the fluids that our skin secretes on the surface are sweat and sebum (oil) – the first from sweat glands, the second from sebaceous (oil) glands. Although the one is often mistaken for the other, these are two very different substances:
Sweat is produced by sweat glands, which are small tubular structures (shape: like a semi-rolled up garden hose) of the skin. It is very fluid and contains mostly water, with traces of dissolved salts, minerals, lactic acids and urea (an organic chemical compound, essentially the waste produced by the body after metabolizing protein). The main function of sweat is to cool down the body due to evaporative cooling on the surface of the skin.
Sebum (oil) is produced by sebaceous glands, which are small, many-lobed structures (shape: like a raspberry) of the skin. It is very waxy and primarily composed of triglycerides, wax esters, squalene and free fatty acids – all very fatty organic chemical compounds. The main function of sebum is to lubricate and waterproof the skin and hair.
So which of the two is guilty?
You might wonder why this is important. I believe that understanding the mechanism that is causing a symptom that you are fighting makes it easier to effectively fight it. So, is it sweat or sebum that makes our faces sticky, oily and shiny in the tropics, especially our T-zones (forehead, nose, chin)?
The answer is both; the result of a very interesting interplay between sweat, sebum aand the humidity levels around us.
As can be read in the Encyclopaedia Britannica, sweat glands regulate body temperature by secreting water (i.e. sweat) onto the surface of the skin, where heat is then removed by evaporation. In other words, by evaporating, each drop of sweat will take a bit of body heat away. The exact mechanism that causes heat to vanish through sweat is a bit more technical than this, but this description is will do for now.
Sounds like another smart body function, right? The problem is though, that water can only evaporate properly when there isn’t much water in the air. This means that when humidity is high, the air around us already contains a lot of water molecules and cannot hold many more, disabling sweat to evaporate and cool down our body. In that case, every drop that we sweat but that cannot evaporate to cool us off, is a wasted drop of sweat. The thing about our body is that it does not like to waste energy and valuable resources.
Therefore, when humidity is high and sweat cannot evaporate, our body prevents the sweat from falling off our skin, its hydrating and cooling benefits going to waste. This is where sebum comes into play: the production of sebum contributes to the formation of a ‘sweat sheet’ on the skin, discouraging the loss of sweat drops from the skin. Some theories claim that heat and humidity increase our actual sebum production, whereas other theories state that the mere temperature change of sebum is enough to form a proper sweat sheet on the skin. Reasoning behind this is that in cold conditions, sebum is more solid or highly viscous, offering a coating function to shield and waterproof the skin. Above 30°C however, sebum changes in fluidity and acts as an emulsifier of sweat, a surfactant, contributing to the formation of a sheet of sweat that is not readily dropping off our face.
N.B. This is the way I understand the mechanism from different academic sources; feel free to comment below if you believe another theory applies or if you have any additional comments to make!
Goodbye Shiny Face - Oil Controlling & Absorbing Products
Because of the role that sebum (oil) seems to play, whether it be increased levels of it or simply its temperature and/or an interplay with sweat, I decided to test some oil controlling and/or absorbing products to fight the shine. To clarify, I’m not including products for oily skin but for skin that is otherwise ‘normal’ and only excessively shines in the hot and humid tropics. In addition, although oil and shine messes with your makeup, I’m not including products to prep and set your makeup to make it look neat and tidy and last longer (looking for this? See my article on setting sprays); only products that specifically promise to take the oily shine away, whether you wear tons of makeup or none.
Powders & Papers do the trick
Products to remove the shine from your face are mostly either blotting sheets or powders. Removing shine through sheets of paper has been practiced in Japan for centuries. The original Japanese facial oil blotting papers are called Aburatorigami (あぶらとり紙), meaning "oil removal paper". These papers were used by kabuki actors and geisha to help keep their thick makeup on while absorbing excess oil and sweat during their performances in non-air-conditioned theaters. Traditional aburatorigami is made from only the finest grade of Abaca leaf, rather than pulp or rice paper.
Product #1: Clean & Clear - Oil Control Film
Product Claim: “Won’t clog pores & instantly removes excess oil and removes oily shine”
These oil absorbing sheets are actually made in Japan but consist of Polypropylene (plastic) instead of Abaca leaf. They promise to instantly soak up excess oil and remove shine from your face, without smudging makeup or leaving behind powder. The sheets come across somehwat surgical to me, definitely not a glamorous product to pop out of your bag to be seen with, in my humble but self-conscious opinion. There are actually more glamorous options to be found, but as this is supposedly one of the bestsellers within its category, I decided to opt for this particular product.
I don't find the packaging very practical; I accidentily took too many sheets out and it's impossible to get them back in. What I do like about the packaging is that the flat pack fits in the tiniest purse or clutch or even in a pocket. Directions are very easy, just take a sheet (but not too many like me) out and pat your t-zone with the sheet.
The sheet visibly absorbs oil, which looks a bit gross. You can see (and feel!) the actual grease on the sheet, like fat stains on your paper napkin when you are eating a yummy but far too greasy pizza.
The result: before (left) & after (right).
As a base, I applied Dermalogica Active Moist and I'm wearing Bobbi Brown Intensive Skin Serum Foundation SPF40, set with Chanel Poudre Universelle Libre (all applied about 6 hours prior to taking these pictures)
Clean & Clear - Oil Control Film, 60 sheets
Price: 4,80 SGD
Available at a.o. Watsons (find stores here) and Guardian (find stores here)
Product #2: Tony Moly – "Face Mix" Oil Paper Powder
Product Claim: "Sebum control powder with a soft texture. Controls sebum without dehydrating the skin."
This loose white powder promises to absorb sebum as well as sweat and supply moisture to the skin, with a clear and healthy looking and silky soft skin as result. Key ingredients are Lotus Flower extract & Ceramide, to supply hydration and soften uneven skin texture respectively.
Although the powder is white, upon application it is translucent and doesn't make your face any paler (thank you Tony Moly). The powder is lightly scented; fresh and floral. It's a pleasant scent, but you only notice it when you stick your nose in the container, not when you apply the powder to your face though.
The powder can be applied with the powder puff that is included in the round plastic container. Not as easy as the oil absorbing sheets, but the result is amazing: my entire skin looks matte and feels incredibly soft! I wasn't necessarily looking for soft skin, but it's remarkable. I want to keep touching my face. Shine-wise, any trace of oily shine is evenly gone. Like really very much gone; it almost looks unnatural in the before & after picture. In real life it doesn't look as fake matte as on the picture though. The mattifying, shine-free effect lasts for about 2-3 hours.
The result: before (left) & after (right).
As a base, I applied Dermalogica Active Moist and I'm wearing Bobbi Brown Intensive Skin Serum Foundation SPF40, set with Chanel Poudre Universelle Libre (all applied about 6 hours prior to taking these pictures)
Great product - the only slightly less favorable part is the fact that the container will not fit every evening bag, but it's worth it to choose a larger bag just to be able to bring this product on a night out.
Tony Moly – “Face Mix” Oil Paper Powder
Price: 21,90 SGD
Available at The Tony Moly Shop in Bugis (find address here) and online through Althea.
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